Couture Technique: One-thread Dart

Why use it:

One thread-dart - stitched starting from a dart point – eliminates unsightly thread tails at the point.

In addition, Roberta Carr in her great book “Couture… The Art of Fine Sewing” argues that this type of dart has a smoother, pucker-free point  and is easy to press.

When use it?

Because of the neat finishing, this technique is definitely most advisable on sheer fabrics or where the inside appearance of the garment matters.

However, Roberta Carr also recommends using it

• On short darts (1 ½ (4cm) or less), as in the cap of a sleeve, 
• On fabric that is difficult to press, such as gabardine.
• On darts that extend almost to the bust point.
• In very fitted garments.
• In tailored garments.

How?

Step 1: 

Remove the top thread from your needle and thread it backwards with the bobbin thread using a needle threader.

Step 2:

Tie the two threads together using the smallest possible knot.

Step 3:

Re-wind the bobbin thread upward until it wraps around the top thread spool several times (appr. three-times the length of the finished dart).

Step 4:

Stitch the dart from dart point starting with a denser stitch. (appr 20 stitches per inch). The first stitch should start exactly on the fabric fold! After ½ inch (1cm) return to regular stitch length appropriate for the type of fabric.

Note:

You will have to rethread the machine for each dart, but trust me, it is really worth the trouble!