Showing posts with label Haute Couture week. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Haute Couture week. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 3, 2012

Inspiration: Bustier referencing at Dior

Readers, are you following Haute Couture shows in Paris. Day 2 was no disappointment, with Dior being the most spectacular collection of the day. It's amazing, actually, as the new designer at Dior is Raf Simons who was responsible for the minimalist and linear style of Jil Sander. It seems, Simons surprised everyone, downgrading bias-cut dresses and Kabuki styling of Galliano to a footnote, according to the Guardian's Jess Cartner-Morley.

My intention is not to critique this collection though. I thought, rather, I would look for details that make this show memorable - there were plenty, really! Instead, I wanted to quote another fashion guru, Cathy Horyn at the New York Times, because she captured the essence of the couture:
"His clothes are often so simple that you have to look at them for a while before you see the small gesture or the magisterial way of sleeveless black crepe falls over the body. He gets the most and the best out of couture, and this is just the start.”
 So, here are some of those small gestured that captivated me. I loved how Simmons translated the strapless look (which dominated his first collection) into other pieces. Enjoy!

This seemingly simple dress has elaborate bust shaping, similar to a bustier,
and a yoke that look like as if it covers a strapless dress. Beautiful dress, and with some patternmaking skills...
Source: {Stylebistro.com}
Now this looks like boobs talking to the audience on both sides of the runway. Not sure whether this detail directly references something done in the past, but in any case it is very weird. Am I the only one?
Source: {Stylebistro.com}

Classic tailoring spiced up!  Love this bustier cups!
Source: {Stylebistro.com}
This is a dress I would love to make! Not with glitter but maybe with lace instead. Not sure what it is, but it does create an illusion of a strapless dress. Fun!
Source: {Stylebistro.com}
Again, cup shaping resonates bustier shaping.
Source: {Stylebistro.com}
Now, what do you think? Do you think Raf Simons showed a fresh angle on Dior? Does Haute Couture inspire you to add new challenges to your sewing, try new techniques, introduce new styles? 

Saturday, January 21, 2012

Countdown to the Paris Haute Couture week...

Readers, I am so excited! On Monday we can see the first reports from the Paris Haute Couture week. Three days of pure excitement, oohs and aahs, and, and, and....

This is the craftsmanship to look up to and I will try to cover my favorite shows over the next few weeks, looking into details of each couture house and, with your help, trying to uncover techniques and materials used in the construction.

Are you with me on it? Then follow along!

Here is the schedule of the shows:

January 23rd:

  • Versace
  • Christophe Josse
  • Bouchra Jarrar
  • Alexis Mabille
  • Christian Dior
  • Maurizio Galante
  • Giambattista Valli
  • Iris Van Herpen

January 24th:
  • Chanel
  • Worth
  • Giorgio Armani Privè
  • Atelier Gustavolins
  • Stéphane Rolland
  • Givenchy
  • Alexandre Vauthier
  • Julien Fourniè

January 25th:
  • Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal
  • On Aura Tout Vu
  • Franck Sorbier
  • Elie Saab
  • Jean Paul Gaultier
  • Maxime Simoens
  • Valentino


I love Chanel, of course, although the past few seasons didn't feature very flattering styles. Love Giambatista Valli and Valentino, and Armani is another house I always look at too.

So, will you watch the shows? What shows are you most looking forward to? Who are your favorites? Any designers you haven't heard much about?
 
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