Ease #2: a-ha discovery (me embarrassed)

Readers, I might be stating an obvious fact, but based on your comments you also are not aware of the fact that Vogue Patterns do state the final garment circumference for the waist, bust and hips on their pattern sheets. Here is the proof:

So, there was no need to measure pattern pieces, ahem - I am embarrassed. I wasted time stated on the pattern anyway. The bust measurement for the finished garment is 94cm, waist 73cm. The body measurements are 87 and 67cm respectively. Which gives us 7cm ease

Apparently, all Vogue patterns are marked in the same way. So, here is the tip of the day: read instructions. It's all there: the circle symbol with a cross inside "indicates Bustline, Waistline, Hipline and/or Biceps. Measurements refer to circumference of Finished Garment (Body Measurement + Wearing Ease + Design Ease). Adjust pattern if necessary." A-ha - I will indeed.

For those who are wondering why this matters, read yesterday's post

Did you have an embarrassing moment in your sewing that you may not feel ashamed of to share?

Couture Patterns (2): V7540 Dress by Claire Shaeffer

I am so excited about my growing collection of Shaeffer's Custom Couture designs for Vogue Patterns!

So, the next on the list is V7540: Misses' Dress & Belt (OOP). I purchased this out-of-print pattern this week on eBay - for very reasonable price.

Fitted, lined, straight, sleeveless dress, mid-knee, has welts and back zipper. A: armhole shields (I've seen those on dresses with sleeves only - very practical) and pockets. Lined belt has button closure.

Ok, the design is basic, but I am really interested in couture construction techniques for the neckline and armholes. I am sure i will discover more when the pattern arrives.

Couture Patterns: an (in)complete list

The last ten days passed without me noticing it. Work, sick kids, projects - leaving no time for sewing or blogging. In between, however, I did manage to acquire some great patterns by Claire Shaeffer from her Custom Couture Collection for Vogue Patterns.

It all started with the very popular and now out-of-print pattern for Chanel(-inspired) Jacket (V8295).

I tried to locate this pattern, in vain, on eBay, Etsy, vintage and discontinued pattern stores... I even wrote to McCalls... They suggested I look on eBay (how original), but at least they wrote back. At one forum, contributors mentioned that V8295 was sold for almost $100 on eBay.... There should be a reason!

Well, to cut the long story short, I discovered about 30 other Custom Couture patterns. I thought, this is better than any sewing resource - it is almost an encyclopedic record of couture sewing techniques project by project. So, I should try to collect all of them!

Do you think it is crazy, dear readers? If you are reading this, the chances are you know Claire Shaeffer and her patterns and are interested in Haute Couture, or? Do you possess any of her patterns?

So, the first thing I did I Googled "Claire Shaeffer Custom Couture" - I came across dozens of blogs describing how they made V8295 or how they are looking for the pattern. Others tried to make Custom Couture Pants, there were also other patterns. But I was not able to find a resource listing all her patterns she did for this collection. If you know of such a resource, please, let me know!

Meanwhile, I decided to create an additional page on this blog listing all Shaeffer patterns with notes. I won't be able to do it at once but I will try to do it one by one. So, check it out - Couture Patterns - I hope it will prove to be a useful resource for others.

The first entry has been added, V7803 (Skirt), an out-of-print pattern.

I purchased this pattern recently and as soon as it arrives I will add description of it. Does anyone know actually whether there other skirts from this line?

Organizing patterns: COSTS!!!!

Ok, when I was writing my last post I was assuming that costs would be high, but here is more precise calculation  for 300 patterns after my trip to Staples:


1. 4 x 3" binders ( I went for 3" instead of 4", and took 'durable' instead of 'heavy duty' binders to save money) = 4 x $10.99 = $43.96 total

2. 3 packs of 100 pc each of 9"x12" manila envelopes= 3 x $8.29 = $24.87

3. sheet protectors ( $19.99 for a pack of 100) = $19.99 (I haven't bought more because I had some at home)


total: $88.82

I am sure that ordering online woudl save money. But if you want to cut costs of this project drastically, do not buy Binders and use an iPhone app, such as Pattern Pal or Sewing Kit (I prefer the latter)

Organizing patterns: a sane way to navigate through 300+ mostly vintage patterns

This night as my small one kept me awake I as always was googling some some sewing content on my iPhone, at some point I came across the Gigi Sews Blog and her great entries on organizing he sewing studio.

One post, however, was particularly interesting for me, as I was a (vintage) pattern fanatic. Over the past three years, since I have arrived to the US, I have collected literally four large boxes full of patterns. I am going to let go half of the stash, but what do I do with the other half. While I am quite confident with patternmaking and draping, it hurts not to keep a great vintage or designer pattern. But seeing them cramped in boxes, with some pattern pieces loose... I could not bear it any longer.

Just yesterday I was thinking of how to get this situation under control. So, here is the link to the original blog post.

Basically, she suggests the following:

1. Remove the contents of the pattern envelope and place them into a 9x12  manila envelope, indicating the pattern company and a number on it. (Envelopes are organized by pattern company and then numerically)
2. Place the original pattern envelope into a sheet protector and place them into a 4" binder. (pattern envelopes are organized by garment type)
 

Materials needed for this organizing project:
9x12 manila envelopes
sheet protectors
4" binders

Costs, I guess it's not cheap. But read my update.

Clutter reduced: No! You will need more space (because of the binders)

So, what are the advantages of this system?

1. Well, it does look very tidy and organized!
2. It is much easier to browse through patterns, without the need to unpack the whole bix of patterns. Just grab a binder with dresses and search for your favorite one while sipping tea in bed.
3. You can store all kind of related stuff in manila envelopes  (fabric swatches, copies of patterns, etc etc)

It's a great system! Thank you Gigi!

If I had less space I would have used iPhone app only. I will post a review in  my next post. Now, I am off to Staples to buy the materials for my new pattern collection.

Plagiarism on Project Runway

Look 9 from the final collection by Andy South for Project Runway, Season 8.

Well so much about top three fashion designers on Project Runway. This design by Andy South is identical to one featured in a cult Japanese pattern-making book by Nakamichi Tomoko. Check out page 52.



By the way, if you can draft a pattern for a basic bodice and a skirt and want to try something more challenging and creative 'Pattern Magic' is for you.