Couture Technique: One-thread Dart

Why use it:

One thread-dart - stitched starting from a dart point – eliminates unsightly thread tails at the point.

In addition, Roberta Carr in her great book “Couture… The Art of Fine Sewing” argues that this type of dart has a smoother, pucker-free point  and is easy to press.

When use it?

Because of the neat finishing, this technique is definitely most advisable on sheer fabrics or where the inside appearance of the garment matters.

However, Roberta Carr also recommends using it

• On short darts (1 ½ (4cm) or less), as in the cap of a sleeve, 
• On fabric that is difficult to press, such as gabardine.
• On darts that extend almost to the bust point.
• In very fitted garments.
• In tailored garments.

How?

Step 1: 

Remove the top thread from your needle and thread it backwards with the bobbin thread using a needle threader.

Step 2:

Tie the two threads together using the smallest possible knot.

Step 3:

Re-wind the bobbin thread upward until it wraps around the top thread spool several times (appr. three-times the length of the finished dart).

Step 4:

Stitch the dart from dart point starting with a denser stitch. (appr 20 stitches per inch). The first stitch should start exactly on the fabric fold! After ½ inch (1cm) return to regular stitch length appropriate for the type of fabric.

Note:

You will have to rethread the machine for each dart, but trust me, it is really worth the trouble! 

Love Oliver+S Birthday Party Dress

I have a lot to catch up with - March was a strenuous month, with kids regularly sick, Mr. Frabjous on duty trip for almost a week and myself suffering from a nasty flu whole last week. Nevertheless, a lot has been accomplished sewing-wise, and today I am starting to upload those images and blitz-tutorials I've been working on while handling all this March madness. And I am starting with...

...Oliver + S Birthday Party Dress

This is my, more casual version of this happiness

The dress looks longer at this images - it  ends at the knee. 

Pattern Sizing:

I used Size 6 for my 5-year old daughter - hoping she would be able to wear the dress next year as well  - and found that the size fits her exactly. I am very happy with the fit, but this is a dress for one season only. Size 5 would have been too small and size 7 too large.  So depending on you child’s measurements, you may want to go one size up. 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Image: Oliver + S

I believe it does. 

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Instructions were great! I do have some sewing experience, but since it was my first pattern by Oliver + S, I have consulted the instruction sheet on each step of the dress construction, and the instructions were very clear.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I liked everything about it: the style is versatile and the pattern is drafted very well. I wish the pattern paper was not so soft though – couple of pattern sheets are torn already (I am using tracing wheel), and since I am planning to use the pattern again I will have to transfer the pattern to the pattern paper.

Fabric Used:

I used rather lightweight linen, with very little stretch to it.  I discovered that it stretches when I came home, but decided to use it for the dress nevertheless. I stabilized the fabric with cotton batiste, which created some bulk, but all in all I think the dress is still quite cute.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I try, whenever possible, to apply couture techniques to the garments I sew (to learn and to practice), but it was an overkill for the dress. I added batiste underlining (it was a very lightweight, little stretchy linen blend) to stabilize linen and to reduce wrinkling. Well, underlining added bulk at the neckline where the pleats are placed as well as at the hem. Not a big issue after a lot of pressing, but worth considering.

Another change I should not have made is adding bigger seam allowances. The pattern includes ½” seam allowance, but I have added another 1/8”.  The problem is that the center front pleats are designed with 1/2 “ in mind and adding more than that will prevent the fabric from folding neatly. So, consider that when making this dress.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I will definitely sew it again. I already have a very nice Robert Kaufman cotton print lined up. I also want to buy a smaller size for my other daughter, as the dress is really adorable.

Conclusion: 

It is a wonderful dress. I enjoyed sewing it a lot and it took me literally one day to make it (with all the underlining etc.). Moreover, the design is so versatile that you can make at least three or four different dresses using one pattern.

Lightweight cottons and linen are probably the best choice for this style.

Sewing from the ugliest pattern in my stash?..

I may indeed, as it is this week's challenge on Sew Weekly: finding an ugly pattern and making someting really nice out of it.  Here what Mena of Sew Weekly says about the concept:

"This week is all about finding the good in the seemingly bad. In other words, break out those hideous patterns that are at the bottom of your stash and make a stunning creation!"

And the pattern is picked, I just don't know if I will be able to come up with some ideas for a stunning creation. I got it as a part of a bigger pattern lot on eBay and could not get rid of it.  Ick, this patchwork vest...

I am happy i am not the only owner of an ugly pattern. Check the Sew Weekly thread to see more hideous examples of styling and design. Interesting, but most of them are from 70s and 80s... Do you own ugly patterns, and if yes how did they end up in your stash?

Sewing gadgetmania: No.6 Rotary Cutter by Alessa of Farbenfreude

Some hate it, others can’t live without it, but the fact is, once you got a grip on it, the rotary cutter offers you the best cutting results. A rotary cutter is the tool Alessa of Farbenfreude really wants to own, so here is her nomination:

Rotary cutter is an innovative cutting tool with a cutting wheel mounted on a handle.  It can cut through multiple layers of thick and thin fabrics in a perfectly straight line without any shifting. It can be used in the right or the left hand and cause less arm and hand strain than scissors. Rotary cutters are available in most sewing notions stores.

I love using rotary cutter for cutting bias strips, or any other bias cutting.

Here are few tips for using the rotary cutter:

Blade Size

Rotary cutter blades size varies from 18mm to 60mm. Larger diameter is better for cutting multiple layers or long straight lines as they roll easier and are sturdier. The smaller blades are more convenient for cutting around curves and any sections of fabrics where you want to have more control of the line.

Blades

The Tungsten steel blades are especially sharp and are a standard for most leading rotary cutter manufacturers. Always have some reserve blades, as they dull after a while. Use new(er) blades for delicate fabrics. Use separate blades for cutting paper and polyester as these materials dull the blade faster. If you have to use a rotary cutter for cutting paper, use older blades. I keep a separate blade for silks only and make a little mark on the blade with my Sharpie marker, so I don't confuse blades. 

Handle

There is a wide variety of handles available in stores. If possible try to hold it and press it against a surface to see which one is the

Cutting Mats

Self-healing cutting board, or mat, is a necessity if you use a rotary cutter. If possible, go for a size that can accommodate a larger pattern piece, so you won’t need to shift fabric for cutting. Also, 45º guides on the mat for bias cutting are very helpful.

One tip for rotary cutter users is to avoid pinnable cutting mats for cutting thinner or delicate fabrics as the cut fabric edge gets embedded into the mat surface and you will have to pull slightly to release the fabric – a pain for silks and thin knits. Also, because the surface is pinnable it can also be cut into, shortening the life of your blades. Go for hard-to-penetrate PVC polypropylene styrenate mat instead, such as Big Mat by Sewing Emporium 

The downside of using the rotary cutter is the price of cutting mats. Be prepared to pay from $60 to $120 for a decent size mat with guides. But if you don’t mind absence of guides, Judith Neukam, technical editor of Threads Magazine has a great advice: “ … go to your local office-cupply store and buy a low-cost mat designed to protect floors from office-chair wheels.” 

Ruler

An acrylic (transparent) ruler is very convenient for cutting longer lines. Check quilting stores for ruler – they have a wide variety of ruler in different shapes. I have one longer and one shorter acrylic ruler for cutting, marking and patternmaking. 

Safety

Rotary cutters are extremely (!) sharp! Keep them away from children and always make sure the blade is retracted every time you put the rotary cutter down! A special safety latch will prevent cutting accidents. In addition, some rotary cutters  are pressure sensitive (such as Dritz Kai Rotary Cutter) so the blade engages automatically when pressure is applied to the cutter.

Finally, if you are fascinated by rotary cutter and want to learn even more about this tool, check this great article on Threads Magazine website: Rotary Cutters and Mats 

Creating a blog badge with a code for readers

I've seen many sewing blogs recently, hosting either a sew-along, or a give-away, or a series of posts on a specific topic. Usually the bloggers would create a badge, and participants readily grab those to display those on their blog. But how about making it easy for your readers to copy the image and the code in just three steps:

1. copy the code
2. paste it into a new HTML/Javascript widget (on Blogger)
3. Save the widget and Publish the blog

See, for example, the gadgetmania badge on the right. It's so easy, really.

This is the code you need to insert in your HTML/Javascript Widget (on Blogger), and I have colour-coded different parts to explain how to customize the content:

>>>>> CODE STARTS HERE<<<<<


<a href="http://frabjous-fashion.blogspot.com/2011/02/sewing-gadget-mania-no1-ladys-knife.html"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtBbrF6kO75L_Z6Yiyd7FnJMk3GfH1S_qTmb7FKdZ88WTqGERZypSVdqdm_wk5xKqDeQt_sQBI4lu0D_BsokqoqMq8DzOc3r_9kPXPrpndoI1Vu_kWAU6pm1FD68AsY59vSUlEdig3__kc/s1600/gadgetmania2.jpg"/></a>

<p>Do you love sewing gadgets? Join the community - grab the code below to display the badge on your blog</p>

<p>Click on the badge to find out how you can win the Little Black Dress book</p>

<textarea name="textarea" cols="30" rows="4" wrap="VIRTUAL">
<a href="http://frabjous-fashion.blogspot.com/2011/02/sewing-gadget-mania-no1-ladys-knife.html"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtBbrF6kO75L_Z6Yiyd7FnJMk3GfH1S_qTmb7FKdZ88WTqGERZypSVdqdm_wk5xKqDeQt_sQBI4lu0D_BsokqoqMq8DzOc3r_9kPXPrpndoI1Vu_kWAU6pm1FD68AsY59vSUlEdig3__kc/s1600/gadgetmania2.jpg"/></a>
</textarea>

>>>>> CODE ENDS HERE<<<<<

The PURPLE text is the URL of the page where you want your readers to land when they click the badge. Copy and paste your URL instead.

The BLUE text is the URL of the image/badge - if it's located on your blog, all you need to do is CTRL-CLICK on Mac, and choose COPY LINK. Then paste it instead of the blue-coloured URL in my example.

The GREEN text is the custom text you want to appear between your badge and the text box with the code for readers. Just edit it, or remove it completely. Be careful not delete any of the tags, or anything that is typed in black.

If you don't want to display the code, than delete the part from <textarea to </textarea>

That's it!