What is genuine design?

Readers,

Yesterday evening I was looking for inspiration for a new dress in some fantasy print, which I would describe as a 'jungle' print. So, while looking, I came across this Erdem number from his Resort 2012 collection (his dresses sell at $1000 and up)

Image: Vogue.com

While I loved this particular collection, this dress has instantly reminded me of the Vogue Paris Original design by Laroche. The technical drawing reveals more detail.

We all heard about how designers are complaining about low-priced knock-offs. In most cases, copies are made in cheaper materials and using cheaper manufacturing processes... but, let's be realistic - Hermès clients won't be buying a Birkin bag from a table on a Canal Street sidewalk....

I also blogged about Project Runway's finalist Andy South knocking off Pattern Magic designs in his final collection. Well, how far will he make it after this experience?

But, what about when a star designer practically copies most of the design (of course, shape and construction are not the only elements of design). The question is, what exactly is the Erdem design vision when it comes to the above dress?

What do you think, readers? Are there designers with an authentic design vision?

Dreamers Into Doers

Readers, I skipped a day of blogging, because I was

• chatting in my online Little Black Dress Class,
• unpacking goodies from a UK-based tailoring supplies store that arrived yesterday, 
• thread-tracing, fitting and assembling my LBD muslin,
• hemming Mr. Frabjous’s new chinos

Forgive me, I was very busy. And, in a due course, I will share the highlights of this day with you!

However, while busy with all this, I wanted to recommend you a site that I enjoy very much. It reminds me of the fact that we are capable of changing our lives to the better by making our fantasies real. Yes, I admit, I do dream of doing fashion and sewing for living, but I am not there yet… So, for now, I am being inspired by the experience of many other women who turned their dream into business! 

I am talking about Martha Stewart’s ‘Dreamers Into Doers’. 

Do check it out and register as a community member. In addition, I wanted to share with you a link to a their most recent quiz, which helps you find out what kind of dreamer you are by answering eight simple questions. I haven’t discovered a secret weapon to turn my fantasy into reality, as the quiz promises, but I did enjoy it nevertheless J Hope you will too!

10+ tips to succeed in an online sewing class

Now, I have to confess – I took the Little Black Dress class before. I had three different fabrics from my stash to choose from and the same number of patterns, and… it didn’t work, I just could not decide which pattern to choose and so on.. than my daughter got sick, then I got sick, then I started a different project, and then the class was over.

So this time, I knew I need to change my attitude, be focused and organized and make it work! I also drafted a set of rules I will try to follow for the duration of the class and after it. Here they are! Maybe, dear readers, you will benefit from those as well (I hope so!)

before the class…

• Make the class your main sewing priority! There should be no other significant projects or deadlines that could interfere with your learning process.
• Set a timeline with significant dates and milestones and make it easily accessible.
• Organize course materials – save them on your computer, online or mobile devices out for easy reference (try to be environmentally conscious and reduce printing to a minimum)
• Shop and prepare all necessary supplies well in advance – you won’t have to stop the project because you are missing a zipper, do not have sufficient fabric or require special sewing needles for your project.
• If the class covers the process of making a garment, choose a pattern and fabric and try not to change your mind when the course starts.
• Post any pre-class questions on the class board early enough so you don’t have to wait for a last minute answer.

during the class…

• Become an active member of the class - participate in class discussions and chats
• Start a binder for samples of techniques or fabric swatches you tried out for the first time in this class. Add sheets for your notes and keep the binder for the future reference
• Carefully read other participant’s comments and posts to learn from their experience and challenges, ask them questions if something is unclear
• Take work-in-progress images and upload them to a dedicated album on the web, a CD-Rom or your hard drive.
• To maximise your learning, do post questions about the project on other sewing forums to find different solutions to one problem

after the class

• Harness the power of social media and share your experience on your blog, Facebook, Twitter, or other forums – you will be surprised what an interesting exchange of ideas and resources it will most likely trigger
• If possible, stay in touch with your classmates, check their blogs and follow them on twitter – their future work may provide inspiration to yourself, and you will know whom to ask if you need some advice or help with something. Also, chances are, your classmates worked on slightly different projects during the class (different fabric choices, different hem treatment, different sewing techniques) – you may end up sewing a project similar to theirs and will know where to look for information.

A tip for iPhone, iPad owners:

Save the pdfs from the class on Google Docs and install Adobe Reader Pro app on your mobile device. This great application allows you to download PDF documents from Google Docs and view them on your iPhone, or iPad. I often read my course materials while commuting  to work.

My Little Black Dress- the beginnings

Dear readers!

After the whole Chanel-inspired jacket epic you have probably realized that I am obsessed about taking sewing classes. The ‘problem’ is the more I sew, the more questions I have.

It’s not even two weeks since I have come back from the Classic French Jacket Class and I am already taking another one – The Little Black Dress Class with Susan Khalje (again).  The comforting thought is I am not the only one – some of the other French Jacket Class participants are taking this class as well,

You may ask how it works with a job and a family… So, the answer is it’s an online class, offered through PatternReview.com. The beauty of these classes is that you can learn from home and schedule your time accordingly. The class is also significantly cheaper than any comparable face-to-face class, but you need to be really organized and focused to benefit from these classes.


The instruction works as a combination of PDF downloads, four live chats with the teacher and a message board. Last online class I took generated over 60 pages on the message board – imagine how much you can learn just by reading it!

I selected this Vogue Couturier pattern from 1959. The pattern is almost two sizes smaller than I need, so I will be grading it up, but I will be doing it on a form. By the way, this is another example of how the sizing has changed over the last 50 years within the same company.  I am a size 12 with current Vogue Patterns, but this one runs almost two sizes smaller.

One great thing about vintage Vogue Couturier patterns ( not sure, however, whether it's true for all of them) is that both, the sewing lines and the seam allowances are marked. That means I didn't have to draw stitching lines like on contemporary patterns.

The fabric I chose is black cotton eyelet, which will be underlined with contrasting tan batiste and lined with crepe de chine. This should make a great summer staple that I can wear both to work and to a night out (not that I have many of the latter!). The image below is somewhat purplish, I was taking it late evening.

This fabric has a border, which may prove a little challenging to underline and to hem. Also, I may try making a waist stay. As usual, I will be posting some couture techniques I used on this blog, and feature the finished garment of course (keep your fingers crossed! I hope the dress will turn out the way I want it) . 

Have you taken any online sewing classes? What was your experience?

Classic French Jacket Class: Day 6 (the Finale)

It's my last day, or half a day, to be precise. Tomorrow, I need to get back to work, and so, I need to be back in New York this evening. 

it's 9:00 a.m. I am back to the classroom and join my classmates who are busy finishing their jackets. I am  taking a bus to New York with Rosie today and need to accomplish as much as possible by 2:00. When I try on my jacket, Susan point outs that both center front edges are a little bit too long. I have to take in 1/4" on both ends of the hem. Not happy about another alteration, but I want my jacket to be as perfect as possible, so I unpick, alter and clean up the hem. Also managed to attach another trim section - did I tell you that I didn't have enough trim to run all the way around the jacket hem - M&J had some 3.5 yards only. Finally, on Day 5 I found a way to place it so I had enough. I bought some more needles, pins and sleeve pads from Susan and am now off to pack my bags.

12:00 p.m. I am back with bags. I have accumulated an additional bag over the week - how does it happen?.. Meanwhile, Rosie is checking out pockets on her jacket. Are these pockets supposed to be functional?

12:30 p.m. Before we leave, Susan shows us how to choose and apply the chain.  Rosie's jacket gets a golden chain, while I pick a silver one.

This is a chain from the jacket featured in Threads Magazine, Issue 121.
See, how each link is secured twice with a double-strength waxed thread!

Susan gives us additional tips on how to make a grosgrain waistband for a matching skirt. She points at a section in her Linen and Cotton book, where she describes in detail the technique. I am happy I got the book (it's one of my favourite reference books on couture sewing, by the way).

2:00 p.m. just before we leave I take this picture of Peggy's lining. Isn't this fabric gorgeous?

2:30 p.m. Our cab has arrived and everyone helps to carry a bag. We get apples to eat on the way home -  hugs and promises to exchange pictures of finished jackets!

On the way, I am thinking of what else needs to be done until the jacket is finished:

- resew the hooks (yes, again, because I was too lazy and stabilized the eyes only)
- finish the hem
- clean-up the remaining sleeve vent
- attach the trim
- attach the chain
- final press (steam only)

Once in New York, I give Rosie a big hug, while she promises to take me to a new dumpling place in Midtown, where we both work. It feels like a new stage in my life and it's very welcome.

Now, back to you, dear readers. I still owe you images of the finished jacket - please give me another day  - right now my face is red, and my nose is swollen from the flu that doesn't seem to end. And I would like to model the jacket for you!

And, finally, there is another, final post on this jacket and the class that will come some time this week to summarize the experience and to share with you a few great tips from Susan! But more about it later!

(to be continued)