Sewing Gadgetmania: Walking foot and why you need it for sewing a Chanel-inspired jacket

This Gadgetmania post is also a part of my Classic French Jacket class project, for I am featuring here a walking foot – an essential tool for quilting the lining and the fashion fabric in a Chanel-like jacket. (I am still sick, by the way, so forgive me any incoherence here) 

What makes this foot special is that it has its own feed dog to move the top layer of fabric. Usually, we would use only the machine’s own feed dog that moves fabric layers from underneath only.

It’s only logical that with slippery fabrics (like charmeuse, or crepe de chine used in Chanel suit lining), the upper layer would shift without additional feed. If you use a walking foot, both layers are moved at the same rate, preventing puckering and pleating of the fabric. 

I have never heard about the foot before the class, and thanks to Dawn (she was my classmate in the Classic French Jacket Class) I am now using it for all my silk / slippery fabric projects!

Prepare paying some $60 to $140 for this tool. And, beware, the ones available for less on eBay are often not original ones, so read the description carefully. (I am not sure they are bad - but I always try go for original tools if they are a little more complex than a sewing needle)

I am featuring here my Bernina foot, but there are quite a few other brands available on the market. Just check the website of your sewing machine manufacturer for the available accessories. 

Have you ever tried sewing with a walking foot? What other non-beginner, or relatively rare tools are you using in your sewing?

Sewing Gadgetmania 8: Bias Tape Maker

Bias tape is perhaps one of the most versatile sewing notions, functional and decorative. And the more you sew, the more creative you are with styles or fabrics, the more difficult it becomes to find a bias tape in correct color or shade.  Having had this exact problem with one of my earlier projects I resorted to making bias tape myself, from silk organza. It was for a circular skirt and I spent hours until I had three meters of stretched and deformed bias strip. And then, I found out that there is a simple tool that helps make the tape in very short time.

There are different brands available, but the Clover bias tape maker seems to be more popular than the others.

It comes in five sizes, ¼ inch, ½ inch, ¾ inch, 1 inch, and 2 inches and is available from many online sewing supplies stores, as well as from Amazon. All you need to make a bias tape is the tool and an iron. It works great with cottons and linen. With slippery fabrics, such as charmeuse or organza, you will need to be very be careful not to move or to stretch the strips too much.

Finally, check out this great bias tape making tutorial from Colette Patterns. This method allows you to create a continuos bias tape without wasting a piece of fabric. (It may seem obvious, but for my first bias tape, I cut a one-and-a-half-yard long organza strip across one yard of silk organza fabric - ouch!)


Do you own a bias tape maker? What do you think about the tool?

P.S.: don't forget to vote for the best reader nomination! The poll is on the right sidebar. Or, nominate your own tool for a chance to win a vintage pattern from my stash.

Sewing Gadgetmania 7: EZY Hem Gauge from Dritz

Continuing the Sewing Gadgetmania series, here is one tool that has become really invaluable to me:

EZY HEM Gauge includes both inches and metric measurements and allows you to hem ¼ to 4” on a straight edge and ¼ to 2 ½ “ on a curved edge.

The reverse side of the gauge

All you need to do is turn up the edge, insert the EZY HEM Gauge, align the edge of the fabric with the corresponding marking on the gauge and press it using steam. On hems, you will need to move the gauge along the hem line and continue pressing.

On curved hems, pre-stitch or baste with a small running stitch the edge of the hem and pull the thread once the hem is turned over the gauge, press.

This tool works great also with pockets, patterns, patches, appliqués, belts and any edges that need to be neatly turned over.

I used hem gauge to turn over and press the center back edge of my daughters 'Birthday Party Dress'.
This saved me some additional marking work

If you have a tool you want to enter to the Sewing Gadgetmania, nominate it here. There is a surprise prize for the next 10 reader nominations.

For past nominations, head over to this post.


Don't forget to vote for the nomination for the most valuable/desirable sewing tool: the poll is on the right sidebar!

Sewing Gadgetmania: Voting is open!

The time is up for the big Sewing Gadgetmania Giveaway – we have to determine the best tool submitted by readers.

The winner, just to remind you is getting this great book:

So back to the Sewing Gadgetmania entries:

 Bernina Lady’s Knife
 Point Presser & Clapper
 Tailor’s Ham and Seam Roll
 French Curve
 Needle Threader
 Rotary Cutter

Only reader-submitted entries qualify for the prize, so please everyone have a look at the right sidebar and vote in the poll for the most desirable/valuable sewing tool among those nominated. One of the three - Magda, Alessa or Maria – will be the winner based on your votes.

But this is not all, leave a comment here and you may win a vintage Vogue pattern from my stash.

As for the future of the Sewing Gadgetmania series, I enjoyed researching and learning about the tools so much that I decided to continue the weekly posts. Maybe one day we have here a sewing tool encyclopedia :-)

Feel free to nominate your tools – I will make sure that there will be enough nice surprises along the way!