Tuesday, July 3, 2012

Inspiration: Bustier referencing at Dior

Readers, are you following Haute Couture shows in Paris. Day 2 was no disappointment, with Dior being the most spectacular collection of the day. It's amazing, actually, as the new designer at Dior is Raf Simons who was responsible for the minimalist and linear style of Jil Sander. It seems, Simons surprised everyone, downgrading bias-cut dresses and Kabuki styling of Galliano to a footnote, according to the Guardian's Jess Cartner-Morley.

My intention is not to critique this collection though. I thought, rather, I would look for details that make this show memorable - there were plenty, really! Instead, I wanted to quote another fashion guru, Cathy Horyn at the New York Times, because she captured the essence of the couture:
"His clothes are often so simple that you have to look at them for a while before you see the small gesture or the magisterial way of sleeveless black crepe falls over the body. He gets the most and the best out of couture, and this is just the start.”
 So, here are some of those small gestured that captivated me. I loved how Simmons translated the strapless look (which dominated his first collection) into other pieces. Enjoy!

This seemingly simple dress has elaborate bust shaping, similar to a bustier,
and a yoke that look like as if it covers a strapless dress. Beautiful dress, and with some patternmaking skills...
Source: {Stylebistro.com}
Now this looks like boobs talking to the audience on both sides of the runway. Not sure whether this detail directly references something done in the past, but in any case it is very weird. Am I the only one?
Source: {Stylebistro.com}

Classic tailoring spiced up!  Love this bustier cups!
Source: {Stylebistro.com}
This is a dress I would love to make! Not with glitter but maybe with lace instead. Not sure what it is, but it does create an illusion of a strapless dress. Fun!
Source: {Stylebistro.com}
Again, cup shaping resonates bustier shaping.
Source: {Stylebistro.com}
Now, what do you think? Do you think Raf Simons showed a fresh angle on Dior? Does Haute Couture inspire you to add new challenges to your sewing, try new techniques, introduce new styles? 

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